The Queen of Curls: A History of The Perm

A permanent wave (which is more commonly called a perm) is a ladies hairstyle that is one of the oldest hairstyles, and has been around since 1872. There have been many different methods used throughout history, but, in the year 1872, Marcel Grateau invented the practical thermal method. Today a similar method is used, but the chemicals used have become less harmful to skin and does not damage the hair. Perms became very popular during the First World War, and their popularity continues today because many women who are born with straight hair desire curls. The Marcel method of waving became popular among women with short hair in the 1900s while other hairdressers had methods that only worked for long hair.

By the year 1917 the first permanent waving heaters were invented, and a similar method is used today in modern times. When the 1930s came around the heating units and waving method were well established, which allowed many middle class women to have their hair permed. Most of the influence for permed hair came from the films because all the famous women of that time wore perms. In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt designed what is called a “cold wave,” which is a predecessor of today’s perm, and there were no machines involved in this process. The hair was wrapped around rods with a lotion that contained the chemical ammonium thioglycolate, and this would break down the bonds in the hair. Then after the bonds of hair were defused, another lotion was applied that would re-infuse them to make the hair curl, and this entire process used to take 6 to 8 hours.

Today, technology has made perming less damaging on hair with better solutions and leave-in conditioner, which helps rejuvenate and de-frizz hair. The new style of perming makes hair feel and look as natural as if you had been born with curly hair, and is healthier on your hair in the long run. Stylists today can create all different types of perms – small curls, large curls, and medium curls. The size and style of curls varies because a stylist will go with the client’s hair, because there are many different types of hair (thin, thick, etc.). The stylist is able to fix the strength of the solution, and the amount of time the solution stays in, to match the client’s hair type.